This quote has been really important in getting me through the last few weeks. I’m now coming off two competitions that I did not get the result I wanted (or feel I should be happy with) and I’ve been having a rough go, mentally, with training as well. It’s tough to always keep this in mind but really valuable.
Both competitions felt like quite the mental beat down. “Why can’t I do this move when everyone else can? Why can’t I even send this problem when others were flashing it? How did I get so behind in climbs? Why can’t I just climb well?”
Feeling a little deflated. |
I know there are skills I can improve but if I’m going to make those of my focuses, I also need to remind myself of what I do well. Below are my lists of what I do well and what I can improve on. I’ve made myself complete a list with equal numbers of both so I always have a positive to work against a negative.
Five Climbing Skills I do well:
1. Heel hooking. If anyone can find a way to heel hook through a move, I will likely be that person. I use my feet as second hands in this way. I find it great for stabilizing and helping to suck you closer into the wall. It’s also great for helping to pull through a move as well if you aren’t great at locking off.
Elevation Place Tour De Bloc 2014 |
3. Lock-offs, lock-offs and lock-offs! God, I love to lock-off. If I can use that lock-off to extend through to another move? Even better! (Especially if you can throw a heel hook in!!!) I’m happy to use locking off and extending through it as much as possible. Specifically when it helps me avoid using momentum to get through the movement. I really love feeling secure in any movement. The combination of a heel hook and a lock-off can really help pull you into the wall. (*Keep in mind - this does have it’s own setbacks but I’ll get to that later...*)
The Hive Tour De Bloc 2013 |
5. Compression moves. I have fairly good hip turn-out, strong heel hooks and I like to use my upper body. All of this lends really well to being good at doing compression moves.
UofA Tour De Bloc Comp 2011?? Rockin' the heel hook and lock-off |
1. Patience, especially with subtle moves. This is all on me mentally. If I don’t feel confident in a move, I don’t have to commit right away and should allow myself the opportunity to work through it. As long as it does not drain me of my energy, I can be slow and patient with the move. I just need to remember that when I’m on the climb.
2. Hip movement. This one I’ve been working pretty hard on and it is incredibly frustrating!!!! But, I’m getting there. This is really tough to do since I would much rather power my way through it. Even learning what the movement is has been tough. I feel like a little kid trying to play in the big kid’s sandbox. My coach and teammates need to literally break it down step by step for me.
Trying to avoid any hip movement. Grindelwald BWC 2014. Photo: Sebastien Lazure |
4. Dynamic movement. Any guesses on what this relates back to? Yep, you’re right... Hip movement. If the dyno is straight up and on an overhang, I will probably do alright but if it is a vertical wall or off to the side, I have a tough time as I need to generate through my hips and don’t yet fully understand how to do that.
Trying to be a bit dynamic. Grindelwald BWC 2014. Photo: Sebastien Lazure |
Canadian Nationals 2014 Semi-Finals #3 |
Yes, there are things I don’t yet do well but more importantly, there are a lot of skills I do great. And they easily match, if not outweigh, what I don’t do well.
That being said, the things I’m already good at aren’t going to make me a better climber. They’re important to remember to keep myself focused on the positive, where I’m headed to and what I already know how to do. To get where I want to be, which is one of the best climbers out there, I need to work on the things I don’t currently do well.
PS - Routesetters, if you’re reading this, it would be greatly appreciated if you don’t aim you competitions at trying to pick apart my weaknesses. ;)